From Kitchen to Garden: Growing Potatoes from Store-Bought Spuds
Potatoes are a kitchen staple around the world, and growing them can be a rewarding experience—especially if you start with store-bought potatoes that might otherwise be thrown away. Whether you’re new to gardening or simply looking for a fun project, this blog post will guide you through the steps of turning store-bought spuds into a thriving potato patch.
Choosing the Right Potatoes
Look for organic or untreated options. Many store-bought potatoes are treated with growth inhibitors to prevent sprouting on store shelves. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated, making them ideal for planting. If you can’t find organic, look for standard potatoes that have begun to show small “eyes” or sprouts.
Check for signs of disease or damage. Avoid potatoes with signs of rot, deep bruises, or mold. Healthy, firm potatoes with intact skin are your best bet for a successful crop.
Encouraging Sprouting (Chitting)
What is chitting? Chitting is the process of encouraging potatoes to sprout before planting. This can speed up growth once they’re in the ground and help you identify the healthiest “eyes.”
Find a cool, bright location. Place your potatoes in an egg carton or shallow tray, with the most prominent “eyes” facing up.
Let them sprout for 2–3 weeks. Ideal chitting temperature is around 50–60°F (10–15°C). Within a couple of weeks, you’ll see small green shoots emerge.
Pro Tip: Don’t let the sprouts get too long—once they reach about 1 inch (2–3 cm), they’re ready to plant.
Preparing Your Garden or Containers
Soil requirements. Potatoes thrive in loose, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH (around 5.0–6.0). Adding compost or aged manure helps enrich the soil with nutrients.
Sunlight needs. Choose a spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Potatoes love warmth and sun to develop healthy tubers underground.
Container growing option. If you’re short on garden space, potatoes can be grown in large containers or grow bags. Make sure there’s enough depth (at least 12–18 inches) to allow the tubers to form and spread.
Planting the Sprouted Potatoes
Cutting into seed pieces (if large). If the store-bought potatoes are small (like new potatoes), plant them whole. If they’re large, cut them into pieces, ensuring each piece has at least 2–3 eyes. Let the cut surfaces dry and callus over for a day or two to prevent rot.
Depth and spacing.
Garden rows: Dig trenches or holes about 4–6 inches deep. Plant the seed pieces or whole sprouted potatoes with the sprouts facing upward. Space them about 12 inches apart, with 2–3 feet between rows.
Containers: Fill your container or grow bag with about 6 inches of potting mix. Place the seed potatoes, then cover with another 2–4 inches of soil. Continue adding soil as the plants grow (known as “hilling”).
Water thoroughly after planting. Potatoes need consistent moisture for healthy growth, especially early on.
Caring for Your Growing Plants
Hilling or mounding. As the potato stems grow to about 6–8 inches tall, mound soil or compost around the base of the plants to keep developing tubers covered and protected from sunlight. Continue hilling every couple of weeks until you’ve built up about 8–10 inches of additional soil.
Water consistently. Potatoes need about 1–2 inches of water per week. Too much can lead to rot, while too little can produce small or deformed tubers. Aim for evenly moist, well-draining soil.
Fertilize as needed. A balanced, all-purpose organic fertilizer works well. If you notice pale foliage or slow growth, consider a side-dressing of fertilizer once plants are established.
Watching for Pests and Problems
Common pests:
Colorado potato beetles: Look for striped yellow-and-black beetles and their orange larvae. Handpick and dispose of them to prevent infestation.
Aphids: These tiny insects cluster on new leaves and stems. Use a strong spray of water or introduce beneficial insects (like ladybugs) to keep aphid populations in check.
Preventing disease:
Early and late blight: These fungal issues cause dark spots on leaves. Ensure good airflow between plants, and avoid overhead watering. Remove affected leaves immediately if you see spots.
Scab: Rough, scabby patches on tubers can result from improper soil pH or inconsistent moisture. Maintaining a slightly acidic soil and proper watering schedule can help.
Harvesting and Storing Your Potatoes
When to harvest:
New potatoes: About 8–10 weeks after planting, once plants flower, you can gently dig around the plant to harvest small “new” potatoes.
Mature potatoes: Wait until the foliage has yellowed and died back (usually 14–16 weeks after planting). Carefully dig or tip over containers to collect your tubers.
Curing potatoes: Let freshly dug tubers sit in a cool, dark area for 1–2 weeks. This toughens their skins, extending their shelf life.
Storing potatoes: For longer storage, keep them in a cool (40–50°F), dark, and well-ventilated space. Avoid refrigeration, as it can alter potato flavor and texture.
Helpful Resources
For organic gardening supplies, seeds, and more, visit:
GrowOrganic.com
Conclusion
Growing your own potatoes from store-bought spuds is a low-cost, enjoyable way to cultivate a staple crop right at home. With the right potatoes, a little chitting, proper planting, and consistent care, you’ll be rewarded with a delicious harvest of homegrown tubers—perfect for roasting, mashing, frying, or just about any other cooking method you love.
Happy gardening! May your potato harvest be plentiful and your meals extra tasty.
Disclaimer
Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I may receive an affiliate commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products and companies I trust and think you’ll find useful.
